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NGC 7000 (reprocessed, false SHO)

Category:Deep Sky
Published:
341
NGC 7000 (reprocessed, false SHO)NGC 7000NGC 6996IC 5070IC 5068NGC 7039NGC 6997NGC 6989IC 5067IC 5076
Resolution:
1619x1080 px
File size:
663 KB

Photo description / processing

I reworked the North America Nebula, playing around with the channels in Siril and the colors in Photoshop to create a false SHO palette. I tried not to make the background too dark, but it turned out the way it did.

The result seems better now, but I'd like to hear an outside opinion))

Technical information

Telescope/Lens
Canon EF-S 55-250mm
Camera
Canon 1100Da
Mount
Штатив
Guide Scope
ручное ведение
Accessories
ДП RC-60E3
Software
DSS, Siril, StarNet++ GUI, Adobe Lightroom, Adobe Photoshop.
Location
с. Рамено, Сызранский р-н, Самарская обл., Россия

Light pollution

Yellow, Bortle 5 zone

Date taken

Exposure

  • 1030 × 1.6″ · ISO/Gain: 3200 · f5.6, 200mm

Total exposure: 27 m

Photo versions

NGC 7000 (reprocessed, false SHO)
Current photoUpdated
NGC 7000 (reprocessed, false SHO)

Jun 10th, 2026

27 m

I reworked the North America Nebula, playing around with the channels in Siril and the colors in Photoshop to create a false SHO palette. I tried not to make the background too dark, but it turned out the way it did. The result seems better now, but I'd like to hear an outside opinion))

Show changes
Previous version
Current version

Comments

megapups
Good result for a tripod, just need to remove the bands. In Siril, under the filters section, there is a filter that removes bands. I don't know the exact name in English, but I think you'll understand.
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megapupsReply to dmitryspn63
Generally, I’d also advise that it’s not always good to make the background dark—sometimes it’s better to make it lighter. But sometimes, a darker background will look better—just never make it completely black. I understand that sometimes it just turns out that way, but still try not to make it fully black. In the US, for example, the background looks decent, though it’s a bit hard to tell because of the bands—but I wouldn’t make it much darker.
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megapupsReply to dmitryspn63
Well, I’m not the best person to advise, since for Bortle 7 I had way too little integration time, but I’d suggest making the background a bit brighter to bring out the spiral arms better. You could try to bring out the H-alpha regions, but I wouldn’t recommend it because your sub-exposures are too short, and I don’t know your total integration time.

Anyway, the main thing is that the core shouldn’t be overexposed.

The spiral arms should be blue, and the core slightly yellowish, more or less.
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dmitryspn63Reply to megapups
Now let's see how well it turns out, and I'll go from there. I won't make the background completely black—honestly, that's not great. I think I'll make it moderately bright instead. Either way, I'll post it in about an hour.
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dmitryspn63Reply to megapups
Well, I didn't go with a very long focal length—I took 135mm to get longer exposures per frame, since the object is quite faint after all. I'm not expecting particularly good sharpness; I've looked at the spiral arms, and they show up reasonably well with just 1/5 of the total exposure time.
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megapupsReply to dmitryspn63
Overall, you're doing quite well with the tripod.
Much better than when I was shooting with a tripod.
When you get tracking, the first thing you'll notice isn't that it's 100 times better, but that the stars are sharper.
Over the session, you get more total integration and it's easier to capture details.
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dmitryspn63Reply to megapups
Thank you, I've been practicing for a long time, gaining knowledge. God willing, of course, I'll manage to buy at least a simple tracker—there's only a month left to rest, then it's back to duty and no time for astrophotography :(

For now, I'm thinking of making a homemade one, the kind made from boards and a curved threaded rod.
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